After a farewell dinner in Cullen Bay, Darwin with Banjo Boy & Blogger (Mark & Karen) we realised we were still heading in the same direction to Kakadu. Karen & Mark were impressed so far with Forward Scout (Tony's) research & spreadsheets so decided to head off to Mardugal Camp Ground in Kakadu.....
These signs are everywhere in Kakadu & you start to wander whether there are actually any croc's around but after setting up camp we saw a salt water croc cruising by the boat ramp near our camp (about 200m away) so we didn't have to be told twice not to go near the water. Up until now we thought these signs were just to entertain the overseas tourists.........not any more! 
Due to the late wet season the road to Twin Falls had just opened the day we arrived. After a hairy 4WD track we came to Jim Jim River and a 750 mm deep river crossing which came over the top of our wheels. The parks ranger said we would be OK as long as we had a snorkel.....we don't. Tony & Mark covered the front of their cars with tarps to protect the engine but we didn't count on water coming in through the doors and inside the car............. it was scary but exciting crossing the river & glad we didn't start drifting off the causeway into the river (as we saw in the floods).....& of course to get back to camp we had to cross it again.
We spent the next 5 days with all the windows and doors open to dry out the car!
A small shuttle boat took us across the part of the river where there was no other access to the Falls & after scrambling over bolders & rocks like mountain goats we reached the spectacular Twin Falls. The Parks and Wildlife people here do a great job. Further on It was hot & late so we only walked to the lookout at Jim Jim Falls. We could have gone on further to reach a rock-hole for a swim but we had a 1.5 hour drive back to camp & didn't want to be on the road too long after dark. Tony and I nearly had emu for dinner the previous afternoon!
The Didgeridoo Boys entertained us most nights. The local aboriginals told us women are not allowed to play the Didgeridoo or light fires so Karen & I had to be content listening and watching. Still a lot more practice required for the didg...........and fire lighting by the looks. Like all good indiginous women Karen and I held our tongues & drank our wine. Luckily the boys had much more luck with the hunting and gathering as we finally settled down to a great camp fire meal.......(sausages in bread)
Noarlangie Rock Art Site is some of the best aboriginal art we have seen so far. This is Nabulwingblwing.... he is a dangerous spirit who eats females after striking them with a yam! We moved the boys on quickly!!
Next on the itinery was the Guluyambi Cultural Cruise down East Alligator River by an Aboriginal Guide who explained their culture & bush survival skills. There are so many croc's in this river we were told to keep our arms in the boat. No-one needed to be told twice once the guide showed us how high the crocs can jump! There was a bend in the river where seasonally around 150 crocs gather to ambush and feed on anything from buffallo to fish.
The middle spear in the above picture is used for punishment..... If you steal or break clan rules the spear is driven into the calf of your leg. The spear stays in for up to 6 weeks and slowly becomes infected and wiggles its way out of your leg. Do it again, and it is speared into your groin. Do it again & the spear goes in your chest!!! You don't do it again.........
Next stop was to see the Ubirr susnset with a few hundred other people scrambling over masses of rocks & bolders (some days I think am a mountain goat) to reach a plateau with 360 degree views of spectacular wetlands and grasses..........& then scramble back down the mountain in the dark!!!
Still a lot more to see in Kakadu next time we visit!
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